Proper Natural Hair Care: Different Schools of Thought

There are differing schools of thought when it comes to natural hair care. Today, we will take a look at Lisa Akbari’s Hair Nutrition System.

Lisa Akbari is an author, cosmetologist, aesthetician, researcher, trichologist, and developer of the Hair Nutrition System. She has over 30 years of experience in the industry and, as such, is a pioneer if the hair care field. She is also the founder of the World Trichology Institute. Trichology is the scientific study of hair and its diseases.

According to her website, www.lisaakbari.com, there are several fundamental steps in the hair care system she has developed.

Her program for natural hair care includes:

1) Cleansing, Clarifying, and Balance Shampoo; 2) Deep Penetrating, Protein Moisture and Stabilizing Conditioner; 3) Hair Vitamins Leave-in-Conditioner; and two support products 4) Oil Sheen in a Jar and 5) Hydration Moisture Plus Moisturizer

Step One: Lisa believes that good hair care begins with clean hair. Her natural hair care system begins with the Clarifying and Balance Shampoo (which has been recommended by Essence Magazine). She teaches that the hair and scalp has a pH between 4.5 to 5.5, and if you use a shampoo outside of the pH range of your hair, your hair and scalp will be dry and you will experience hair breakage. She believes that a pH balanced shampoo should be around 5 in order to properly cleanse the hair and scalp without drying. Her Cleansing Clarifying and Balance Shampoo with a pH of 5, is within the range of your scalp pH. The shampoo claims to removes excess dead skin cells, dirt and build up from hair sprays, gels and other damaging products, while preserving the hair and the natural oils of the scalp.

Step Two: The next step in the process of her natural hair care system is the Deep Penetrating Protein Moisture and Stabilizing Conditioner which penetrates the hair shaft to condition hair, and rinses cleanly away without residue providing the required balance of moisture and protein for your hair.

Step Three: The Hair Vitamins product in Lisa’s natural hair care system is used as a leave-in conditioner. It improves the elasticity of the hair and stops breakage by filling the torn and thin areas of the hair shaft. According to her website, the product stops breakage immediately. The Hair Vitamins also strengthen the hair around the hair line and keeps the hair and scalp free from damaging buildup.

Well, that takes care of the basic natural hair care routine. Let’s look at the supporting natural hair care products.

Her Moisture Plus Moisturizer is a natural moisturizing cream developed to revive dry and brittle, damaged hair. It's said to soften naturally curly or kinky hair.

Oil Sheen in a Jar is described as a lubricant for your hair shaft and scalp, giving a natural shine without a buildup.

In addition to the supporting products mentioned above, her Naturally Textured product will allow your natural hair to have a texturized look without chemically treating the hair. According to the instructions, you apply Naturally Textured after Step Three above, twist or braid your hair and dry naturally or under a dryer making sure to monitor the time so that you do not dry out your hair and scalp.

According to the ingredients tab, here are the ingredients in her products: Purified Water, Henna, Hydrolyzed Protein, Aloe Vera, Jojoba Oil. However, this is just a partial list, because I still have a bottle of the Hair Vitamins, and the ingredients listed are: Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Protein, Biotin, Vitamin H, Vitamin B Factor, Purified Water, and Methyl Paraben.

I can tell you that I have used her hair care system on my own hair when it was relaxed, and on my son’s loose curl pattern natural hair. Her system is fantastic, but goes totally against the no poo or co-wash methods. I’m enjoying the no-poo, co-wash method; however, with her explanation of No Poo vs. Shampoo, and her 30 years of experience in hair care and research, I may have to rethink my no poo method. I think it was the bacterial growth she mentioned that got my attention. I will address that in my next post.

Natural Hair Care Journey - Update

After my initial Big Chop (you can watch the video here, or on YouTube) I went to the barber shop for a shape up. He picked out my hair and shaped it up, and it was even all over. I thought to myself, "This should grow out real nice." Then he handed me the mirror, turned me around so I could see it from all angles using his station mirror and the hand mirror, and I nodded affirmatively that I was satisfied. Then he took the hand mirror and set it down...and in a split second he turned the clippers on and was shaving the side of my head! Ok, he wasn't exactly shaving it, but he was cutting the sides so short that there would be no curl definition once I applied product. I didn't even bother telling him to stop, because at that point, the hair was already gone! I think (No, I KNOW) he misunderstood what I wanted. I think he thought that I intended to wear a fade, even though I told him I wanted it even all over. I went home disgusted, to say the least, but I knew that my hair would grow back… I would just have to wait and make do.

After a few weeks, while I was still patiently waiting for my sides to grow back, I began to notice that the hair on the top of my head and on my crown was growing in at a much faster rate than the hair on the sides and the back of my head. It was starting to look like I had a football-shaped head. You don’t even want to know what that looked like! Ooh! Pardon me - I'm having a serious hot flash! I'll be right back!

I'm back. Whew!

Ok, so having a perceived football-shaped head was unacceptable to me, so I sort of did my own trim and it turned out ok.

My initial hair care regime consisted of Suave Naturals Tropical Coconut Conditioner for my co-wash, VO5 Herbal Escapes free me fresia for my conditioner, and Eco Styler with Olive Oil (Green Top) for defining my curls. I was happy with the products, but noticed that I could not use either conditioners as leave-in conditioner with the Eo Styler Gel. It justed ended up being a big messy mess. I should have heeded the warnings of others

who have gone before me, but I had to see for myself. Note to self: Do not use either condioners referenced above as leave-in conditions with Eco Styler Gel.

I really liked the way the Suave Naturals worked as a co-wash, and I love the way the Eco Styler Gel defines my curls. The drawback is that the Eco Styler drys to a hard finish, and leaves my hair "crunchy" if you can imagine crunchy hair.

I also tried the Cantu Shea Butter Natural Hair Coconut Curling Cream. HATED IT! Or maybe my hair hated it. It left my hair dry and frizzy, and left a nasty residue. I may try it again when my hair is a little longer. I'll stick with the Eco Styler Gel for now.

Next Stop: As I Am Coconut Co-Wash, TRESemmé Naturals Silicone-Free Nourishing Moisture Conditioner and Eco Styler with Moroccan Argan Oil (Red Top).

The journey continues...